About 20 years ago Medici Ermete (not to be confused with Ca' De' Medici), one of Reggio Emilia's oldest Lambrusco producers, decided to grow its own grapes for its top-line wines rather than buy must from the cooperatives. "We were able to grow and press to our specifications", says Alberto Medici. "And we were able to replant our vineyards for quality". They're still on the flat because the soil, coarse alluvium, provides excellent drainage, but to much higher densities (4,000 vines/ha) that allow the individual vines concentrate their energies into just a few bunches of grapes.

What happens to these high quality grapes following the harvest? The initial fermentation is quite traditional; the must goes into vertical steel tanks where yeast convert the sugars to alcohol, and the fermented wine macerates on the skins for a certain time (depends from year to year) to extract color and aromatic compounds. The wine is then filtered and moved to an autoclave where a second lot of must is aded. With more sugar available fermentation resumes, but this time the CO2 produced is collected and stored. Depending upon the type of Lambrusco desired (dry or sweet) the fermentation is either allowed to run its course or interrupted by chilling before the sugars are all converted into alcohol; it is then filtered, bottled, and very briefly pasteurized to keep whatever sugar remains from re-fermenting in the bottles.

This is, as Alberto points out, a technologically intense process and quite expensive; Medici Ermete would be unable to afford to make these wines if they didn't also produce close to nine million bottles of more everyday Lambrusco from purchased must every year. The quaffing wines are, as a group, good honest wines. Nothing to get really excited about, but a cut above most of the supermarket Lambruscos sold in Italy.

The flagship Lambruschi (Solo, Concerto and Bocciolo) are a completely different matter. As a group they are remarkably approchable wines that will do very well with poeple who are not wine drinkers. But they're not just for the neophyte; given the proper setting they will astonish connoisseurs as well. Put simply, they are a fantastic foil for food.

There are also a couple of very interesting white frizzantes (Daphne and Nebbie d'Autunno), both made from Malvasia. The first is Daphne, Malvasia DOC Colli di Scandiano, which is a pale gold and has an extraordinary bouquet with violets, lavender, wisteria, golden delicious apples of the kind that smell of bananas, and a host of other things. On the palate it's surprisingly dry, mild, and medium bodied, with a pleasant sweetness that gives way to a characteristic, slightly eucalyptisy finish that sound odd but works quite well. It will go nicely with cold cuts, pastas with cream sauces or stuffed pasta, fish (especially crustaceans), and white meats.

Nebbie d'Autunno is again made from Malvasia. However, it's a dessert wine that's similar in some respect to a good Moscato. The bouquet has an extraordinary mix of floral notes; on the palate it is sweet but not cloying, with a delicate honeyed finish, and quite full. It will go wonderfully with delicate pastries, or walnuts. Well worth seeking out.

Finally, there is Concerto:
When I offer Lambrusco at wine shows people look doubtful", says Alberto, "but then they come back for more". And well they should; a sip and you will understand why Lambrusco won medals in Paris exhibitions before the vineyards migrated down from the hills.

Concerto is a deep red with a pale pink foam, and has a powerful vinous bouquet laced with violets and berry fruit. On the palate it's full, dry, and loaded with fruit, especially raspberries and blackberries. It's also very clean, and has a warm persistent finish with warmth and pleasing clean acidity. It will go wondefully with Reggio Emilia's great prosciutti and salami, and will also work beautifully with rich pasta dishes, especially those with white sauces, and also braised or grilled white meats. It will go just as well with grilled sausages and other high ponts of the summer barbecue, be the seasoning mild or spicy. This is definitely a wine to look out for.

Medici Ermete's Lambruscos have done more than just catch the attention of connoisseurs: They have also caught the attention of other vintners in the area, and now many who used to buy must from the cooperatives are growing their own grapes, or renting vineyards to get just what they want. Some are even moving back up onto the slopes, and though it is too soon to tell what the results will be, things are definitely looking up for Lambrusco.

Alberto's great grandfather Remigio would be proud of the part is company is playing in the rebirth of one of Italy's great red wines, as would his grandfather Ermete.

Kyle Phillips, Italian Wine Review

And you will be quite impressed if you happen to visit the area, which boasts many beautiful castles and some of the finest cooking in the world.

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