MEDICI ERMETE
Lambrusco Reggiano Concerto 2006
(The ONLY Lambrusco in the entire guide!)
Origin: Italy, Emilia-Romagna
Style: Sparkling dry red wine, 11.5% ABV
Grape: Lambrusco Salamino
Drink: Current release
Lambrusco is often bad-mouthed both in Italy and abroad. Unfortunate reputation comes from the fact that production of this wine is controlled by huge cooperatives of grape growers, which are paid by the ton regardless of the quality of the grapes. The lax production laws did the rest.
The Medici Ermete estate was the first, back in mid-1980s, to take real pride in the production of Lambrusco. Back then they decided to grow their own grapes for their top wines, while continuing to buy in grapes from cooperatives for the rest. The difference this made was dramatic: The press noticed right away, as did the market and other producers, who began to follow their exampmle.
The Medicis increased the density of the vines to 1,620 per acre (rather than the traditional 650), and reduced yields to 5.4 tons per acre (rather than the 13 tons permited under the DOC regulations). They also changed the training and trellising systems from long, high-trained shoots (to facilitate mechanization) to proper spur-pruned cordons.
Lambrusco Reggiano Concerto is a wine to change people's opinion about this much-maligned DOC. When poured it develops a beautiful, pale-pink mousse that is the image of happiness itself. The nose is of summer berries, but it posseses a delicate floral appeal as well. On the palate, it is dry, packed with summer-fruit flavors, with a cleansing acidity and a reasonably long finish. Its place is at the dinner table, where it perfectly matches Italian salami and robust, meaty pasta dishes."
~ 1001 Wines You Must Drink Before You Die, 2008 |