Blossoming scents of tangerine peel in the glass hint that Daphne is sweet as can be.
Not so. At first sip, this frizzante Malvasia Secco from Lambrusco producer Medici Ermete (whose Concerto red we can't resist), reveals itself to be edgy and dry. Made from the Malvasia di Candia variety, which once was also a staple in Madeira, the wine is highlighted by subtle floral overtones. If you need a break from Champagne's yeasty heft, and still want bubbles to launch a meal, the 2005 Daphne ($20) from the Emilian area of Reggio (Italy) offers an aromatic alternative. From winerydirect.com.
-- Jon Bonné, Sipping News, San Francisco Chronicle (February 23, 2005) |