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THE 15 BEST [ITALIAN] SPARKLING WINES
AND ROSES UNDER $100
90/100
Lambrusco Reggiano Secco Frizzante "Concerto"
You won't find a better Lambrusco than the ones made here, wines of uncommon depth and creaminess whereas other Lambruscos are all too often thin, tart, and unpleasant. The Medici Ermete family has been involved with Lambrusco for more than 100 years and today looks after 60 hectares of vineyards subdivided among three main properties (Tenuta Rampata, Tenuta Quercioli, and Villa Giada), doing considerable work on its grape varieties. The lambrusco family of grapes is large, and not all grapes are at the same level of quality.
The "Concerto" by Medici Ermete is made with the superior lambrusco salamino variety, which tends to give Lambrusco more immediate appeal and is easier to understand for wine loveres who do not find fizzy red wines to their liking. This wine is crimson-purple in color, with loads of wild strawberry, raspberry, and ripe cherry aromas and a touch of red roses; it eners rich and round, with lots of lively acidity, delineating flavors similar to the aromas. The very long and unapologetically dry finish leaves the mouth fresh and salivating, and ready for another glass immediately.
The "Solo" bottling (see the "10 Best Sparkling and Rose Wines at $25 or Less" list in section 2) is also very fine, but altogher different from the wine described here, due to the presence of the ancelotta grape variety (as well as the lambrusco salamino, quite different from the Marani sub-variety), which makes the latter wine much smoother and almost sweet."
~ Guide to the Best Wines of Italy by Ian D'Agata (2008) |
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MEDICI ERMETE
Lambrusco Reggiano
Concerto 2006
(The ONLY Lambrusco in the entire guide!)
Origin: Italy, Emilia-Romagna
Style: Sparkling dry red wine, 11.5%
Grape: Lambrusco Salamino
Drink: Current release
Lambrusco is often bad-mouthed both in Italy and abroad. Unfortunate reputation comes from the fact that production of this wine is controlled by huge cooperatives of grape growers, which are paid by the ton regardless of the quality of the grapes. The lax production laws did the rest.
The Medici Ermete estate was the first, back in mid-1980s, to take real pride in the production of Lambrusco. Back then they decided to grow their own grapes for their top wines, while continuing to buy in grapes from cooperatives for the rest. The difference this made was dramatic: The press noticed right away, as did the market and other producers, who began to follow their exampmle.
The Medicis increased the density of the vines to 1,620 per acre (rather than the traditional 650), and reduced yields to 5.4 tons per acre (rather than the 13 tons permited under the DOC regulations). They also changed the training and trellising systems from long, high-trained shoots (to facilitate mechanization) to proper spur-pruned cordons.
Lambrusco Reggiano Concerto is a wine to change people's opinion about this much-maligned DOC. When poured it develops a beautiful, pale-pink mousse that is the image of happiness itself. The nose is of summer berries, but it posseses a delicate floral appeal as well. On the palate, it is dry, packed with summer-fruit flavors, with a cleansing acidity and a reasonably long finish. Its place is at the dinner table, where it perfectly matches Italian salami and robust, meaty pasta dishes."
~ 1001 Wines You Must Drink Before You Die, 2008
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KYLE PHILLIPS'S ITALIAN WINE REVIEW
(April 6th, 2007)
Medici Ermete Concerto Reggiano Lambrusco DOC 2006
Lot 37/07
Deep pigeon blood ruby with fine perlage and purple rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with violets and plum fruit mingled with some raspberry acidity and hints of underbrush. Quite nice. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit -- raspberry and tart strawberry supported by clean brambly mineral acidity and deft sparkle that flow into a clean mineral finish. Quite nice, and an extremely fine food wine, whereas Solo is more of a sipping wine -- it's just that much drier, and will therefore work better with foods. You'll want a second bottle.
90 |
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"...Tasting Medici-Ermete's Concerto Lambrusco at lunch in an elegant restaurant with pumpkin ravioli and wood mushroom risotto is a completely different experience from the surreptitious suburban basement sips of my 70's youth. It's dry, and fruity. It fizzes off the tongue gently and doesn't assault the nose with bubbliness >>>."
~ Pierluigi Medici has a mission. New Mexico Business Weekly - April 11, 2003 |
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86 | Medici Ermete
Reggiano Lambrusco Arte e Concerto
If you're serving roast suckling pig, this is the wine to pour. It's earthy, tannic and acidic, a bone dry foil to the fattiness of the pork.
~ Wine & Spirits (April 2007) |
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86
/ LAMBRUSCO
Medici Ermete 2005 Concerto Lambrusco Reggiano Secco (Emilia-Romagna)
"If you thought Lambrusco (a fizzy, red wine often served chilled) cannot pair with food, think again. The wine's effervescence and acidity make it perfect for cutting through cream- and cheese-based dishes. This dry version has a dark, ruby color with red berry aromas, clove and a touch of mint tea."
~ Wine Enthusiast (December 15, 2006) |
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Medici Ermete
Why they’re dudes: The sales rep who poured our glass wasn’t actually part of the winery but...he sold us.
What’s their deal: An Italian winery that for 20 years has grown their own grapes for a series of Lambruschi, or naturally fermentation-carbonated wines, both white and red.
Flagship wine: 2005 Lambrusco Concerto is a slightly fizzy red wine, which is an anomaly among American attempts at carbonated reds: Its bubbles are not upfront and neither is it’s sweetness. Instead it’s a dry, almost bitter, red wine that tastes like spicy cherries. This Lambrusco would be a good, meaty replacement for brunch champagne.
~ Hot Knives (09/01/2006) |
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Medici Ermete Lambrusco Reggiano 'Concerto'
An exuberant, dark red frizzante wine with a deep grapey nose, lots of dark berry character, a touch of bitterness and a touch of sweetness. Panelists were divided on the meats it paired best with; several said fatty salumi ("It cleanses the palate after the fattiness," said one), while others found it too fruity for salami, preferring it with soppressata, prosciutto and speck.
~ The wines that sing with salumi. (08/30/2006) |
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Medici Ermete
2003 Lambrusco Secco Concerto
Sparkling red wines don't get much respect in the U.S., but good lambrusco is worth a closer look. I don't mean the sweet stuff, but dry lambrusco, labeled secco to distinguish it from amabile and dolce (slightly sweet and sweet).
Made in Emilia Romagna from the low-tannin lambrusco grape, good versions like Medici Ermete's Concerto taste like they are made for sipping with some thin-sliced salumi or arancini, Italy's addictive fried rice balls. The dried cherry flavors are light and savory with a slightly bitter black pepper edge that cuts through richness, while the soft bubbles give the wine a refreshing lift.
It's an excellent wine with which to whet the palate on a hot day, or sip all the way through a meal. (It's 11 percent alcohol, so you can have more than a glass.)."
~ Tara Q. Thomas, Wine of the Week (08/11/2006) |
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"Having the good fortune (forsight) to have married an Italian, I have spent some time each summer in Italy. My husband's father introduced me, several summers ago, to the wonders of Lambrusco.
Upon my return I was greated with curled-lip derision every time I would ask a wine store if they carried any good, dry Lambrusco. Then, in 2002, I was eating at Jonathan Waxman's short-lived Washington Park restaurant and found Medici Ermete's Concerto Lambrusco on the menu. It was fantastic. Intense, ruby red and dry. I tracked it to its only importer at the time in Californa and ordered several cases. I am still enjoying the final bottles this summer. Not sure it's easy to find but I can see by my dwindling stash that I am about to have to find out."
~ The Pour - Lambrusco, No Joke. Comment by julie - July 28, 2006 @ 9:00 am |
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"The Ermete Medici is wonderful - the color alone is stunning - looks like liquid rubies. The taste is outstanding. Was tipped off last spring at Il Posto Accanto and have been stocked up ever since. Have tried others and have been not so happy."
~ The Pour - Lambrusco, No Joke. Comment by jac - July 26, 2006 @ 2:17 pm |
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"Last week I served this with a great dry Lambrusco. (Yes, Lambrusco can be great.) Look for one called Concerto 2004 from Medici Ermete. It's spectacularly good, with intense color and substantial fruit, yet remains utterly dry and restrained. Serve it cool, but not cold."
~ A Recipe For Wine by Matt Kramer - June 14, 2006 |
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"Lambrusco Medici "Concerto": Are you ready for a fizzy, fruit-driven red wine? Served well-chilled, this lambrusco is absolutely terrific for beating the heat, a welcome partner to barbecued foods such as ribs and hamburgers. It is the perfect summer red for the adventurous. It's a bit hard to find -- check specialty wine stores or place a special order. But at less than $20 a bottle, it is truly worth the hassle of tracking it down."
~ Honolulu Star - July 6, 2005 |
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"Concerto 2003. Deep red. Wonderfully arromatic with juicy red and black fruit. A highly satisfactory mouthful of proper Lambrusco - nose dry, arromatic beautifully balanced and demanding food."
~ Decanter Magazine - 2004 |
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One of my favorite summer treats is a plate of fresh figs with shards of Parmigiano-Reggiano. In my quest to find a perfect wine match, I came across an article in New York Metro that had high praise for the rare Lambrusco wine from Italy. This fruity, effervescent red did the trick and I give it full marks as a summer wine. My good friend Max, a chef from Abruzzi, swears by Lambrusco, and now, I do too.
Here are three great picks for the summer:
1- Concerto Lambrusco Reggiano As I wrote, a great discovery for the summer. This fizzy Medici Ermete red is best when cool and not cold. Have it with veal, sweetbreads or (my favorite) figs, prosciutto and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Note the cool curvaceous bottle.
~ AskMen.com - 2004 |
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"Cantine Medici Ermete is a century-old family business which aims for quality and a discriminating market sector. Its high-density vineyards produce much less than the authorised 18 tonnes/ha of grapes – for a cru Lambrusco like Concerto, the yield is 11 tons/ha – and the result is a wine with a more intense structure, concentration and vibrant aroma."
~ Bubbling up by Michele Shah (Decanter Magazine, 01-01-2003) |
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| Medici Ermete Concerto Lambrusco Reggiano 2000
More crimes have been committed under the name Lambrusco than under any other wine name. It’s a relief then to find an example that is a) dry, b) red, and c) very tasty. Concerto is the Medici family’s very successful attempt to produce a Lambrusco to be proud of. It’s a single vineyard wine made from Salamino, one of the best clones of the Lambrusco variety, and from vines pruned to yield around a quarter of the norm for the region. This is chewy mouth-filling wine, quite full-bodied and packed with cherry flavours, and boasting a long dry finish. It may be sparkling, but it’s much more a wine for rich food than for sipping by itself. And it’s certainly not a wine to leave in the kitchen at parties. SW
~ Wine & Spirits (September 2002)
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"...Concerto Lambrusco Reggiano are guaranteed crowd pleasers. They're much drier than their mid-seventies incarnations, and they take a chill nicely because of the slight fizz. Marzovilla recommends that you serve them with their classic partners: chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano and thin slices of prosciutto, or figs and walnuts. As easy as chips and salsa, and a much better consolation for the hazy view..."
~ Fair-Weather Friends. The New York Magazine - June 24, 2002 |
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Richard Mayson's Pick of Emilia-Romagna Wine
Lambrusco Concerto: cast aside all preconceptions. This fresh, foaming red from the family firm of Medici is a revelation with its vibrant, slightly sweet blackberry fruit and a hint of peppery spice. Perfect served chilled at summer picnics.
~ The Italian Job by Richard Mayson (Decanter Magazine, 04-01-2000) |
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Medici Ermete
Lambrusco Reggiano Concerto 1994
"Beaujolais with bubbles. Deep ruby color and bright grapey flavors, with a pleasant hint of bitterness and dry finish. Refreshing for a summer afternoon." |
Score: 81
Release Price: $14
Country: Italy
Region: Emilia-Romagna
Wine Spectator
Issue: Dec 15, 1995 |
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| QUERCIOLI - SOLO - CONCERTO - BOCCIOLO - DAPHNE - NEBBIE |
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