Peter Pliger, proprietor and winemaker at this tiny property (only about 2,500 cases are produced annually), is considered to be a pace-setter for the Val d'Isarco region, which is located in the normally cooler northern portion of Suedtirol.

His organically cultivated vines exhibit an aromatic profile and stony minerality that differ from those grown just north or south of his property and are expressive of a unique terroir.

Biologically responsible farming is essential, Pliger asserts, if the microflora in the soil are to properly convert the various mineral elements into the soluble form needed by the vines. He grows only sylvaner, gewuerztraminer, riesling and veltliner; the last two in particular are striking wines, pehaps reflecting Pliger's admiration for rieslings of the Mosel and veltliners of the Wachau in Austria (where they are called gruener veltliner). In particular, climate and soil are quite similar to those of the Wachau and, although there are older plantings - and more experience - of veltliner in that region, those from Kuenhof are equally compelling. The gewuerztraminer is vinified to be very dry and is atypical of the ones generally found in Suedtirol.

2008

I was very impressed with the wines I tasted this year from Kuenhof, a small estate located in Bressanone, in the northern reaches of Alto Adige. I am told the US allocation of these wines is just a few cases, but hopefully readers elsewhere will be able to latch on to a few bottles of these wonderful whites.

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The 2008 Riesling Kaiton is a vivid, bone-dry wine redolent of white peaches, minerals, crushed rocks and lime peel. The Kaiton possesses superb length on the palate in a focused, pure style that will offer its greatest pleasure at the dinner table. Antipicated maturity: 2009-2012.

- www.eRobertParker.com


2002

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Pale gold with greenish highlights. Somewhat muted floral and herbal scents on the nose. In the mouth one finds intense flavors of white peach, orange peel and apricot, sharply focused and delineated, showing noteworthy verve. A strong sense of minerality underlies the honeyed finish, which also conveys nuances of candied ginger and quince.

- International Wine Cellar, July/August 2004, Issue 115


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